Path, tree, and dock lighting designed and wired by a licensed electrician. Transformers sized right, wet-location code followed, and scenes that come on by themselves at dusk.
Most landscape lighting around the lake gets installed by whoever was already in the yard. Then the transformer hums, half the run goes dim from voltage drop, and the splices corrode in a season. Lighting on a lake property is electrical work. It should be done by an electrician.
I design and install low-voltage LED systems for paths, steps, trees, and stone work, and run line-voltage where the job actually needs it. Every system gets a transformer sized off the real fixture load, wire gauged for the run length, wet-location rated connections, and GFCI protection where code requires it.
On the water side, dock and shoreline lighting ties into the same rules as the rest of your dock wiring: marine-rated fixtures, bonded metal, nothing energized where people swim. And if you want the whole thing on scenes with the interior, it connects to Lutron lighting control, a photocell, or a plain timer. Your call.
Already have a system the landscaper left behind? I service and rebuild those too. Serving Sunset, Salem, Six Mile, Seneca, Keowee Key, and The Cliffs communities. SC license CLM118131.
Have a question not listed here? Call or text (864) 436-8680 — I'm happy to talk through it.
Paths, steps, and tree uplights are almost always 12V low-voltage LED: safer, cheaper to run, and easy to adjust. Line-voltage earns its keep on long runs, big flood coverage, and anything feeding outlets or future add-ons. Most lake properties end up with both, fed from one properly sized transformer and a dedicated circuit.
Yes. That slope from house to dock is the best lighting money you can spend on a lake place. Dock fixtures must be wet-location rated, GFCI protected, and bonded along with the rest of the dock metal. I do the path and the dock as one system so it all comes on together at dusk.
Usually, yes. Nine times out of ten it is an undersized transformer, wire that is too thin for the run, or twist-on splices buried in mulch. I rebuild the feeds with gel-filled connectors, rebalance the runs, and the same fixtures suddenly behave.
Plain low-voltage additions usually do not. A new line-voltage circuit, a new outdoor sub-panel, or dock electrical work generally does. I handle the permit when one is required, and I will tell you straight when one is not.
Walk the property with me at dusk and I will show you what is worth lighting and what is not. Straight quote, no design fee.