Dock power, boat lift circuits, dock lighting, and full dock rewires for waterfront homes. Marine-grade methods, AFCI/GFCI protection where required, and clean conduit runs that survive SC lake weather.
Dock wiring isn't the place for shortcuts. NEC Article 555 (marinas and boatyards) and Article 553 (floating buildings) drive most of the rules — equipotential planes, GFCI protection at 30mA on shore power circuits, AFCI where applicable, labeled disconnects, and bonding that doesn't quietly corrode out over a Carolina winter.
I specialize in dock electrical work for Lake Keowee, Lake Jocassee, and Lake Hartwell — including waterfront homes in The Cliffs, Keowee Key, and The Reserve at Lake Keowee. Whether it's a new boat lift circuit, shore power for a pontoon, dock lighting on a timer, or a full rewire of a dock the previous owner's handyman built in 2007, I quote it to code, pull the permit if the AHJ requires one, and use the wiring methods that actually survive on the lake.
If the dock itself is fine but the electrical is a mess, a full rewire usually runs about half the cost of a new dock — and saves you a lot of swimming-with-an-extension-cord moments next summer.
Most dock lighting fails because it was never engineered for a wet, swinging, sun-baked environment. Marine-grade fixtures, weatherproof boxes, and proper bonding are the difference between lighting that lasts ten years and lighting you'll replace every season.
Green or white LED fish-attracting fixtures wired through a properly bonded transformer. Drives the bass, crappie, and bream right to your dock at night.
Low-voltage path lighting along the gangway, walkway, and piling caps. Stays on a sunset-to-sunrise photocell or scheduled controller — never burns through a hot summer day.
Marine-rated overhead fixtures inside boat slips and over lifts. Bright enough to load coolers and tie off lines after dark, dimmable for everything else.
RGB LED strip and accent lighting under handrails, around steps, and along the dock perimeter. Runs from a marine-rated controller you can hit from your phone.
Lutron, Hubbell, or controller-of-your-choice running scenes — "evening swim," "tied up for the night," "guests over." Sunset/sunrise scheduling so nothing's left on by accident.
NEC 555 and 553 require equipotential bonding around any dock with electrical equipment. We bond every metal frame piece, slip ladder, and water connection — the part most installers cut corners on.
If you already have dock lighting that flickers, trips the GFCI, or only half works, that's almost always a wet J-box, corroded marine connector, or missing bond — not the fixtures. We diagnose and repair what's there before recommending anything new.
If any of these are true for your dock, get it looked at before summer.
Electric Shock Drowning (ESD) is a real risk on lakes. If you feel a tingle in the water near your dock, kill shore power and call immediately — do not get back in.
Romex, SO cord, or extension cords zip-tied under the dock are not permanent wiring methods. Water, UV, and dock movement wear them fast.
These are symptoms of undersized conductors, corroded connections, or failing disconnects. They don't get better on their own.
I meet you at the dock (yes, I'll drive to Lake Keowee). Boat lift amps, shore power count, lighting, outlets, sub-panel vs. direct feed — we map what's there and what needs to change.
You get a written quote that calls out what's being done to NEC 555 / 553 — GFCI protection, bonding, equipotential plane, labeling. No vague 'dock wiring' line item.
Wiring ran in appropriate conduit / UF cable with correct support. Disconnects labeled and lockable. Where the AHJ requires a permit and inspection, I pull it. You get a final photo set for your records.
Waterfront wiring is a specialty. Picking the generalist who did your kitchen remodel isn't usually the right move.
Have a question not listed here? Call or text (864) 436-8680 — I'm happy to talk through it.
Most dock rewires run $2,500–$7,500 depending on length, number of circuits, whether a sub-panel is involved, and whether the service from shore needs upgrading. Boat lift circuits add to that. I quote it in writing before starting.
Usually yes for new service runs, sub-panels, or major rewires. Repairs may not require one. I check with the local AHJ before pricing so the permit cost is in your quote, not a surprise.
If you ever feel a tingle, hear a buzz when touching metal rails, or see corroded disconnects near the water: no. Kill shore power at the house and don't swim until it's inspected. Electric Shock Drowning is the reason NEC 555 exists. I'll come out and test for stray current.
Yes — those are a big chunk of my dock and lake-home work. I'm familiar with HOA requirements and can provide the paperwork each community asks for.
That's usually the cleanest way to do it. One sub-panel at the dock, lift circuit on its own branch with proper disconnect, shore power and receptacles on GFCI-protected 30mA circuits, dock lighting on a time clock or photocell. One trip, one inspection, one clean result.
Most residential docks are 1–3 days of work once the quote is approved. Larger docks with lifts and multiple runs can stretch to a week, but I'll tell you up front what to expect.
Get the dock wired right before summer. Free site walk, written quote within a day.