Septic pump panels, lift station controls, well pump control, and irrigation pump panels. Alarm floats, HAND/OFF/AUTO selector, weatherproof enclosure — wired to spec the first time.
A pump control panel looks simple from the outside, but the wiring inside is how you get reliability. Alarm circuit separated from control. Source and load clearly labeled. Neutral bonding where it belongs. Terminal blocks seated properly so a vibration alarm won't loosen them over the next five winters.
I install and replace pump control panels for septic effluent pumps, septic lift stations, submersible well pumps, irrigation pumps, and lake-pulled water systems. Most often it's an Alderon AP-series or SJE Rhombus IFS panel — UL-listed, 120/230VAC, with a red alarm beacon and audible buzzer.
If your existing panel is fried, outdated, or was installed with household-grade wiring, it's worth replacing before the pump itself dies. I quote it up front, wire it to the manufacturer's schematic, and commission it with a full wet test.
These aren't subtle. If you notice any of these, it's worth a look.
Red beacon or audible buzzer means either a high-water float is stuck, the pump isn't pumping, or a relay in the panel itself has failed. Don't silence it — diagnose it.
Panel contactors, capacitors, and float switches all age out. If your pump runs constantly, cycles rapidly, or won't start on AUTO, the controls are the usual culprit — not the pump.
Outdoor panels deal with heat, humidity, and bugs nesting in the enclosure. After a decade they're living on borrowed time. Plan the replacement before a failure floods a crawlspace.
I look at the existing pump, float count, run distances, and panel location. If the pump itself is failing, we talk about replacing them together vs. panel-only so you don't pay for the same trip twice.
Simplex vs duplex. Float configuration (pump-off, pump-on, high-water alarm). 120V vs 230V. NEMA 3R outdoor enclosure vs 4X for extra-wet conditions. All of this matters for reliability — I quote the right panel, not the cheapest.
Old panel removed, new panel wired to manufacturer schematic, enclosure sealed, alarm tested, full wet-cycle commissioning. You get a labeled photo of the wiring in case anyone else ever needs to work on it.
Pump control panels are one of those quiet parts of a property — until they fail and flood a basement.
Have a question not listed here? Call or text (864) 436-8680 — I'm happy to talk through it.
Yes, if the pump itself is still healthy. I'll test the pump before committing to a panel-only swap so you don't end up back in the same spot a month later.
Duplex (two pumps with alternator) is standard for commercial lift stations and some high-use residential setups. Most single-family septic or well applications are simplex. I'll give you a clear recommendation based on your flow and downtime tolerance.
Often, yes. Properly sized contactors and capacitors reduce mechanical and thermal stress on the pump motor. A clean, tight panel can add years to pump service life.
Usually one of three things: (1) a float is stuck on, (2) the pump isn't moving water, or (3) a relay in the panel has failed. I diagnose and price a fix on the spot — no guesswork.
Residential simplex installs typically run $900–$2,400 depending on panel grade, enclosure, wire run, and whether the existing conduit can be reused. Duplex systems go up from there. Quote comes in writing before work starts.
If your AHJ requires one for pump control work, yes. Most residential pump panel replacements in SC are handled as electrical maintenance and don't require a separate permit, but I confirm per-county before starting.
Call or text a photo of the panel and I'll tell you what I see. Quote within 24 hours.